LFW - Autumn/Winter 2016

I am a bit embarrassed that it has taken me so long to write this blog post but better late than never right?

I managed to go to a handful of London Fashion Week shows and presentations during February. This year was the first time I been to presentations I have to say it wasn't what I was expecting. I have often been told that presentations are more interesting than catwalk shows as they're meant to be more of an event but I never spent long than few minutes walking around the showroom.

Danielle Romeril AW16 Presentation - Sponsored by Topshop
I like Danielle Romeril collection however there way only about 10 models and once you have walk across the room there nothing else to see. On the wall there was a short description about the collection "Danielle looked at historical costume, antique-looking Irish cloths, a hand braided chevron, a hint of period costume and added in a sporty twist". I would of liked to see these imagery on the walls and see how they related to the final clothes. The clothes itself are very wearable when styled as separate pieces. I like the slit elements especially.

Edeline Lee AW16 Presentation part of the On/Off Schedule 
When I arrived at Edeline Lee showroom there was a long queue outside creating a hype. However, the clothes were very simplistic, the colour palette was black and white and the silhouettes were boring and unflattering.

The layout of the room had not been thought through. The models were positioned in the middle of the room with loads of space behind them so all the press was squashed at the front. There needed a path where all the press could weave in and out of the models and take photos as they walk along. I literally had to push and shove through the crowd to get these photographs so I hope you appreciate them. 

Eudon Choi AW16  - Official LFW

Eudon Choi catwalk took place in the official British Fashion Council location Brewer Street Car Park. Just want to start off saying if anyone trying to convince you that Brewer Street Car Park is a cool urban location I am sorry to tell you it is just a regular car park. Now moving on...

Choi collection was inspired by abstract art this can be seen from the asymmetric silhouettes, fragmented patterns and juxtaposition of hard/soft fabrics. The exaggerated bows at the neckline and sleeve hem remind me of an old fashion painting apron which emphases the art inspiration behind the collection. Slit also appeared in Eudon Choi collection, I am sure this is going to be a key trend next season. 

Ong - Oaj Pairam AW 16 - Official LFW

Every part of Ong - Oaj Pairam was beautiful from the invitation I received to the location chosen and the final collection. The catwalk took place in Carlton House Terrace often used for weddings and formal events. After the catwalk the models stood in the middle of the room and the designer encourages everyone to take a closer look at the clothing and touch the fabric. I really liked this idea as it was merging a catwalk show with a presentation.  

The clothing are definitely created for the red carpet, to formal to wear to a wedding. The last photo of the blue ruffle dresswear Paloma Faith wore to the final of The Voice UK.  

Fed up of the same high-street shops?

As much as I love Topshop, Zara and H&M. I am bit bored of how mainstream they are. Occasional I purchasing from ASOS thinking I am being a bit more adventures only to find my friends had the same idea.

Self Portrait is the best in-between brand for affordable fashion that still contains unique designs and fabrications. The company designs occasional wear using lots of lace and embroidery creating beautiful detailed clothing. The use of panelling and flashes of skin gives the feminine lace clothing a modern and edgy feel.

1. Unknown 2. Arabella Lace Midi Dress £250 

3. Panelled lace midi dress £320.00 

 

4. Liliana Sheer Panelled Shirt Dress £320

Prices are on average £260 ranging between £100-£300. Which isn't too bad for a special occasion, especially since theses dresses look £1000s!

Han Chong the design behind the brand and Central Saint Martian graduates has tried starting several clothing companies however they failed as it was too expensive or just didn't work out. 

Self Portrait feels a gap in market for luxury occasional wear at a contemporary and affordable price point. As a result Self Portrait is now being stock in all the major retails including: Selfridge, Net-a-porter and Matches.   

 Self Portrait has also gained a large A-list following:

Armer, Lace and Game of Thrones

I am so sorry. It's almost been a year since I posted anything. I been so busy with my last year of university that I didn't realised I haven't posted in so long. 

I'm loving Altuzarra latests collections. His collections are super wearable yet still so original and well thought out.  The leather latticework was apparently meant to be inspired by Renaissance architecture. I personally don't see it. Instead it kind of reminds me of armer similar to the what one would expect to see in Game of Thrones.  

 Spring/Summer 2015:

Pre Fall 2015: Joseph Altuzarra seamed to have carried on developing the same trend in his next collection making it even more commercial for the least daring to wear.  

Game of Thrones:

The lace trend seems to appear on the high-street as well. Yet I couldn't find this trend in the top end of high-street such as Reiss and Whistles it a shame as I would like to see what them make of it. I actually bought the H&M dress below I love how there ribbon weaved in-between the cut-outs, on of my favourite buys.  

Missguided:

Michael van der Ham Spring/Summer 2015

I was invited to the Topshop showspace to see Michael van der Ham SS15 collection. I was really excited as I have never been to the Topshop showspace before. It was really cool they had a little cafe with the food and drinks branded with Topshop labels and a beauty area where make-up artists could provide last minute touches to your look.

 

The best way to describe Michael van der Ham collect is luxe pop art. Instead of having patterns printed directly onto a garment they were appliquéd on and hand beaded with lots of pearls. The colours are almost mucky running into one another creating a very calming summer feel. My favourite garment is the odd looking skirt in the fourth image, It almost looks like two skirts cut in half and some how attached together again. 

The catwalk was so long! Most catwalks are half the size if that...I think I counted 18 models on the catwalk at once!

London Fashion Week - Day 1

Jean – Pierre Braganza Spring/Summer 2015

I was lucky enough to get tickets to see Jean – Pierre Braganza catwalk show. There was a very impressive celebrity turn out from Made in Chelsea cast to the Little Miss members.

He describes his collection as “exploring the accidental elegance of industrial design and abstract expressionism, the point where randomness and consideration intersect.” To be honest I have no clue what he is talking about but his collect is definitely random.

The show started off with a series of geometric colour-block garments with a sporty feel to them. The collection was almost entirely monochrome with hints of pink, purple and blue.  A mixture of prints also appeared in the collection with pleated garments the resembled folded napkins.  

The Highlights:

The crush velvet quilted jacket is definitely my favourite piece. It actually looked more purple on the catwalk.

See the rest of his collection here.. 

Daniela Barros and João Melo Costa SS15

Daniela Barros collection had some really nice elements. 

She uses a lot of layering in her designs mixing chiffon fabric 

with opaque fabric and uses a lot of interesting fastenings 
and cut-outs. I definitely think she a designer to watch out for!

Watch Daniela Barros SS15 show here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwulgWV9P7E 

I did not think much of Joao Melo Costa collection. It was literally pieces of tissue and wrapping paper thrown onto models

and stuck down, like a child playing dress up.

But anyway you can take a look for yourself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r19l7sGH1Vo

Sports Lux & The Fabric Of The Moment: Neoprene

One of the major players in the SPORTS LUX trend is neoprene fabric. In case you don't know what that is... the fabric is generally use for wetsuits the thing you wear if you would go rafting. As the fabric is often padded out with foam creating its thickness I am sure will see more of it on the catwalk for the September autumn/winter collections. If you want to get ahead of the curve I've created an affordable buyers high street guide...

I keep on seeing Clover Canyon name pop up everywhere her whole summer 2014 collection was made out of printed neoprene and is around the £200 price mark. The prints remind me of Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto. The strip and neoprene are the perfect mix for the sport lux trend. For a special occasion its not such a bad price to invest your money it!

Central Saint Martins BA SS15 - Graduate Class of 2014

My favourite fashion designers of CSM graduates:

1. Richard Quinn:
His collection was inspired by things that rip and tear. He started of his research by defacing old couture imagery, tearing L'official photocopies in half and glueing them together to create new garments. His collection almost takes the mickey of couture. One reported even named his collection cracked couture!

All the garments besides the jacket are made from calico and hand painted straight on made up dress like an artist with a canvases.

There is a great interviw with Richard Quinn here:
http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/ba-final-collections/richard-quinn/

2. Daisy Collingridge
Daisy Collingridge collection reminisce childhood bedtime with cosy quilts, pillows, slippers and stuff teddy bears. Weirdly though she claims here inspiration cam from visiting fames and seeing the quitted rugs places underneath saddles on horse. Anyway it created a beautiful collection!

3. Quoi Alexander
Alexander silhouettes were woven with a tribal vibe. The collection was inspired by the work of artist Xu Bing who created beautiful books and scroll written in what look like Chinese writing but when examined closely one realise it doesn't have any deeper meaning. This translated to highly detailed garments without a particular theme. 

There is a great interview with Quoi Alexander here:
http://www.fashioneditoratlarge.com/2014/06/quoi-alexander-csm-class-of-2014/